Growing & Gardening Tips

Marigold Varieties

When to Plant
Plant seed directly into the ground once danger of frost has passed or start indoors 4-6 weeks prior to last frost for earlier blooms. Seed starting indoors has never been easier with the wonderful selection of Jiffy products to make the process easy and successful!

Location/Soil
Plant in full sun. These easy to grow annuals can grow and survive quite well even in poor soil.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 3 mm (1/8″) deep and 2.5 cm (1″) apart. Seeds germinate in 5-8 days.

Information
Low maintenance plants that do well in heat, rain and windy conditions. Can survive short periods of dryer conditions but do not like to too dry for long. Shorter varieties are better for windy locations. Removed faded blooms (deadheading) to keep plants blooming continuously and looking fresh throughout the season.

Types of Marigolds
French marigold (Tagetes patula) Generally shorter and with smaller flowers, they come in a variety of colors. 
African marigold (Tagetes erecta) Tall plants with large round flowers in solid, bright colors.

Morning Glory Varieties

When to Plant
Sow directly to the garden in thoroughly warm soil or for earlier flowers start indoors 4 weeks before the last spring frost date in your area. To start seed indoors, use Jiffy seed starting products which are easy to use and consistently provide excellent results.

Location/Soil
Plants do best in rich, well drained soil in full sun.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 5 cm (2″) apart. Space plants 15 cm (6″) apart.Seeds germinate in 10-14 days.

Information
A wonderful and fast growing vine with pretty trumpet shaped flowers. They require support as they will vigorously climb on screens or trellises as well as climbing and trailing in hanging baskets and containers.

Nasturtium Varieties

When to Plant
Plant direct or for earlier flowers, start seeds indoors 2-4 weeks before the last frost.

Location/Soil
Plant in full sun to light shade. 

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 2.5 cm (1″) deep and 2.5 cm (1″) apart. Space plants 20 cm (8″) apart. Seeds germinate in 7-21 days. 

Information
Leaves and flowers are edible as long as no chemical sprays have been used on the plant.

Petunia Varieties

When to Plant
Start seed indoors 8-10 weeks before last frost. Start of right by using proven Jiffy seed starting products – the ease and efficiency of using Jiffy will provide excellent results.

Location/Soil
Plant in full sun to light shade. 

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 3 mm (1/8″) deep and 13 mm (1/2″) apart. Space plants 30 cm (12″) apart.Seeds germinate in 7-21 days.

Sunflower Varieties

When to Plant
Sow seeds directly outdoors once all danger of frost has passed.

Location/Soil
Plants do best in rich, well drained soil in full sun. For the best germination, keep the soil evenly moist, from seeding until the young plants emerge.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 8 cm (3″) apart.Seeds germinate in 7-14 days.

Other Information
Although sunflowers are heat and drought tolerant, they will be far better when grown with ample moisture. This is especially true during the flowering stage.

Harvesting & Storage
Allow the sunflower plant to mature in the garden. Once mature (the yellow petals will have dried and fallen off and the back of the flower will be brown and dry) cut the head off the stem leaving approximately 1 foot of the stem attached. If the flower head/seeds have not totally dried in the garden, hang upside down in a warm, dry and well ventilated area until the seeds loosen and are completely dried. Seeds can start to drop from the flower head as they dry; wrap some cheesecloth around heads while drying to catch any that fall out during the drying process. Rub the seeds out of the head by hand. If the seeds are being saved for birds, just store in sealed containers in a dry location. If you want to roast for a snack, follow the following directions:

• Cover unshelled seeds with salted water, using 1/4 to 1/2 cup of salt per two quarts of water. Soak seeds in the salt solution overnight. Drain off the water the next morning and pat the seeds dry to remove excess moisture. (You can also roast the seeds unsalted, by simply skipping the soaking process).

• Preheat oven to 300°F. Spread the sunflower seeds evenly on a cookie sheet or shallow pan and bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until golden brown, stirring occasionally. The seeds will often develop a small crack down the center as they roast. Test after each stirring to see if the seeds are completely roasted by tasting.

• After roasting, remove seeds from the oven, stir in 1 teaspoon of melted butter for every cup of seeds and allow them to cool completely. Add seasonings if desirable and then store the seeds in an airtight container.

Sweet Pea Varieties

When to Plant
Sow outdoors as soon as the ground can be worked.Soak seed for 24 hours prior to planting.Location/SoilPlants do best in rich, well drained soil in full sun.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 5 cm (2″) apart. Space plants 10 cm (4”) apart and rows spaced 10 cm (4”) apart. Seeds germinate in 10-14 days.

Information
Water regularly – sweet peas do best when they have cool, moist roots. Pick sweet peas for a beautiful bouquet when the buds at the tip of the flower clusters are not yet open. Sweet peas are heavy feeders and benefit from regular fertilizing throughout the season. Plants require a support to climb. Picking for bouquets, removing faded blooms and seedpods will have plants continually producing beautiful flowers all season long.

Zinnia Varieties

When to Plant
Plant directly outdoors once the danger of frost has passed or start indoors 4-6 weeks prior to last frost for earlier blooms. If starting early, give seeds the best start by using Jiffy seed starting products for optimal results.

Location/Soil
Plants do best in rich, well drained soil in full sun.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 6 mm (1/4″) deep and 13 mm (1/2″) apart. Seeds germinate in 5-7 days.InformationIt is better to water at the base of zinnia plants to avoid getting the foliage wet thus helping to prevent disease. The first flower shoot can be pinched out to encourage the zinnia plant to bush out and produce and better display.

Bean Varieties

When to Plant
Garden Beans require warm soil and good growing conditions. The seeds will decay quickly when planted in cold wet soil. 

Location/Soil
Beans do best when planted in full sun. Warm, well drained soil is best. Planting where beans and peas have not been grown for at least a year will help reduce insect and disease problems.

Planting & Growing Information
Once danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed, directly sow bean seeds into gardens or raised beds. Seeds germinate in approximately 6-14 days.

Bush Beans: Sow seed 2.5 cm (1”) deep. Space seeds approximately 10 cm (4”) apart. Space rows 60 cm (24”) apart.

Pole Beans: Sow seed 2.5 cm (1”) deep. Space seeds approximately 10 cm (4”) apart at the base of a pole or support.

Bush beans produce an entire crop all at once while pole beans produce over the entire growing season. Keeping beans picked on both types of plants will increase production. Depending on the needs of the gardener, those who want to can or freeze a lot of beans may want to grow bush beans for a large harvest all at once where planting pole varieties will allow the gardener to harvest all season long but making succession plantings of bush beans will produce similar results.

Other Information
Don’t work in bean patch while plants are wet/damp – this will help reduce the spread of disease. Make sure plants receive adequate moisture during and immediately after flowering and once pods have formed to ensure a higher yield of nicely shaped beans. Pole beans need support to climb. Use poles, strings, trellises or make tepees for the beans to climb.

Harvesting & Storage
Beans can be picked when pods are young and tender.Harvest often to increase yields.Remove pods that are too old for eating as the old pods take away nutrients from developing pods and reduce yields – if pods get large with seed, the plant will stop flowering.

Companion Planting
Likes: Carrot, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, marigold.

Beet Varieties

When to Plant
Sow outdoors in early spring as soon as soil can be worked. Successive plantings of the same or different varieties will provide a wonderful harvest of young beets, beet greens and mature beets for an extended period of time.

Location/Soil
Plant in full sun. Work soil well prior to planting to remove clumps and stones that can inhibit root formation.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 2.5 cm (1″) apart. Rows should be spaced 30 cm (12″) apart. When seedlings are approximately 5 cm (2”) tall, thin the seedlings to 8 cm (3″) apart to grow uniformly sized beets. Crowding keeps roots small.Seeds germinate in approximately 10-12 days.

Other Information
Harvesting young beet greens is an excellent way to thin throughout the row. Pick the entire plant when leaves are 10-15 cm (4-6”) tall and as you work your way through the row you will thin the plants and also enjoy a wonderful harvest of young greens and superb tasting baby beets! Beet greens make for a very healthy and tasty dish! Enjoy them in a salad or steam the greens and serve with butter. Baby beets cooked with butter wrapped in aluminum foil and cooked on the barbeque tastes superb.

Harvesting & Storage
Beets can be harvested at any size. Beet greens stay fresh for 5-6 days in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. To store beets, trim the leaves 2 inches from the root. Do not trim the tail. The root bulbs should also be bagged and can be stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer. Most commonly, beets are cooked and frozen to be used throughout the winter months.

Companion Planting
Likes: Celery, chamomile, dill, rosemary, lettuce, onion and the brassica family (broccoli, cabbage etc.)

Freezing Beets
Remove the beet greens from the root bulb and wash the beets to remove any remaining soil. Bring a large pot approximately half full of water to boil. Gently place beets into boiling water and boil for 15 minutes. Additional time may be necessary if beets are larger. Fill sink with cold water and after 15 minutes of boiling remove one of the beets with a slatted spoon and place in the cold water and test the skin. The beets are done if the skin slides right off the beet. If this happens remove the rest of the beets and add them to the cold water. If not allow to boil for an additional five minuets. Remove from the cooling water and peel and chop or shred. Place in freezer bags, remove excess air and freeze to enjoy throughout the cold winter months.

Brocolli Varieties

When to Plant
Sow directly outside in late spring or start indoors 4-6 weeks before last frost.

Location/Soil
A cool weather crop that likes well drained, moisture retaining soil. Plant in full sun. Plants do best in rich soil.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 13 mm (1/2″) apart. Plants should be spaced 45 cm (18″) apart with rows spaced 60 cm (24″) apart. Whenstarting indoors it is easiest to sow 3-4 seeds in a Jiffy pot and then thin to the strongest plant. It is best to have transplants set out into the garden by the time they have 6-8 true leaves. Seeds germinate in approximately 7-10 days.

Days to Maturity
From the date transplanted into the garden. If sown direct into the garden, add approximately 20 days.

Other Information
To reduce the risk of disease it is ideal to practice crop rotation and plant in a different area of the garden that has not grown broccoli or its relatives (cabbage, cauliflower, kale) in the previous 2-3 years. Cut the crown portion of the stem approximately 8-10 cm (3-4”) down on the stalk to promote the growth of side shoots which will provide an abundance of smaller broccoli heads.

Harvesting & Storage
Mornings are usually the best time to harvest broccoli as it is coolest outside and the plants haven’t taken on the heat of the day yet. Harvest when heads are hard and green and before yellow flowers appear. Store broccoli in the refrigerator in a plastic bag and use in 3-4 days. For best flavor, cook broccoli only until tender/crisp or use raw with dips or in salads. Broccoli freezes very well, maintaining its color, texture and taste.

Companion Planting
Likes: Brassicas, lettuce, onion, sage.

How to Freeze Broccoli
Harvest the vegetables on a day you have plenty of time to prepare them. Wash the vegetables thoroughly in cool water while you start a pot of water to boil. Also, make an ice bath in the side of a sink or in a large pail at the same time. Cut broccoli into separate florets. Many prefer pieces about 2 inches long by 1½ inches wide. When water is at a rolling boil, plunge them into boiling water for about 2-3 minutes and then remove from the boiling water with a slotted spoon or dump them into a strainer and place immediately into an ice bath for 30 seconds or longer to stop the cooking. Once the broccoli has cooled, drain them and put into freezer bags. Seal them and label them with the name and date. Stow in the freezer for up to 6 months.

Cabbage Varieties

When to Plant
Sow directly outside in late spring or start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost.

Location/Soil
A cool weather crop that likes well drained, moisture retaining soil. Plant in full sun. Plants do best in rich soil – the addition of compost or well rotted manure to the planting area will keep the soil in great shape.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 13 mm (1/2″) apart. Plants should be spaced 45 cm (18″) apart with rows spaced 60 cm (24″) apart. When starting indoors it is easiest to sow 3-4 seeds in a Jiffy pot and then thin to the strongest plant. It is best to have transplants set out into the garden by the time they have 6-8 true leaves. Seeds germinate in approximately 7-10 days.

Days to Maturity
From the date transplanted into the garden. If sown direct into the garden add approximately 20 days.

Other Information
To reduce the risk of disease it is ideal to practice crop rotation and plant in a different area of the garden that has not grown cabbage or its relatives (broccoli, cauliflower, kale) in the previous 2-3 years. Splitting in cabbages can be caused by a sudden growth spurt or when plants receive a heavy rain after a dry spell. It is less of a problem with mid to late-season varieties.

Types of Cabbage

Savoy Cabbage also known as curly cabbage originated in Italy. Its crinkly leaves are quite pretty and are considered the most tender and sweet. Delicious thinly sliced in salads, quickly stir-fried, or braised in butter, this cabbage stands up better to longer cooking times. 

Green Cabbage These long-lasting cabbages are solid and compact. Use it in salads and slaws, stir-fry it, or long-cook it to bring out its essential sweet nature. Harvest heads that feel heavy for their size (which can range from softball to almost basketball size), with tightly packed, moist looking leaves.

Red Cabbage looks like green cabbage but is a beautiful red/magenta color. Red cabbage heads tend to be a bit smaller than green cabbages, but look for similarly tightly packed, moist-looking leaves and heads that feel heavy for their size. Red cabbage is delicious thinly sliced in salads, mixed into slaws with green cabbage, or cooked.
Note: red cabbage turns an odd blue color when cooked. Counteract this effect by adding some sort of acid (vinegar or lemon juice are common choices) when cooking it.

Harvesting & Storage
Cut heads from the cabbage plants once they feel hard and are tight and solid. Store cabbage in a cool area (slightly above freezing is best) with good air circulation and humidity. Mid-season or late-season varieties store better over longer periods of time. Keep early cabbages or damaged heads in the crisper of the refrigerator and use with 1-2 weeks.

Companion Planting
Likes: Beetroot, potato, oregano, sage.

Melon Varieties

When to Plant
Sow directly into the garden once the danger of frost has passed or for an earlier crop, start indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost using 3-4” Jiffy peat pots and make sure to weather/harden off the plants before setting them in the ground. When transplanting take great care not to disturb the root system.

Location/Soil
Best when planted in a rich, moist, well-drained soil in full sun. Transplants should only go into the garden once soil is completely warmed. Plants will do better if there is some shelter from winds.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 2.5 cm (1″) deep and sow 5-6 seeds per hill or 5 cm (2″) apart. Plants should be spaced/thinned to 2-3 plants per hill or 15 cm (6″) apart. Rows should be spaced 1.5-1.8 m (5-6′) apart. Seeds germinate in approximately 5-10 days.

Other Information
Adequate moisture is essential during the growth of the plant and during pollination while fruits are setting. After this, water only when soil becomes dry as high rainfall or excessive irrigation as the melons near maturity will adversely affect fruit flavor. Water around the base of the plant and be careful to avoid splashing dirt onto the leaves which can transfer diseases from the soil to the plants. To improve the chances of having nice, sweet, matured fruit by the end of the season, it can be helpful to limit the number of fruits on each plant (by removing blossoms) after you have 3-4 melons forming will allow the plant put all its energy into those remaining fruits.

Harvesting & Storage
Melons are ready to harvest when the stem easily separates from the fruit. To avoid over-ripening, harvest melons before they naturally separate from the vine. The best way to check maturity is to place your thumb beside the stem and gently apply pressure to the side. If the stem separates easily, the melon is ripe. Store at room temperature as cooler temperatures will cause them to loose flavor and texture.

Carrot Varieties

When to Plant
Sow outdoors in early spring as soon as soil can be worked. Successive sowings can be planted up until mid-June for full sized crops – later plantings can also be done but carrots will be smaller.

Location/Soil
Plant in full sun. Work soil well prior to planting as a softer soil allows roots to develop uniformly. Keep area free of weeds.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 6 mm (1/4″) deep and 13 mm (1/2″) apart. Rows should be spaced 30 cm (12″) apart. Carrot seeds are small and planting a specific distance apart can be difficult. The use of a small seed seeder can help or just lightly scatter the seed by hand. Generally it is better to seed heavier as the germinating seedlings can help push each other through the ground. Seedlings should be thinned to approximately 5 cm (2″) apart for optimal root formation. Seeds germinate in approximately 10-14 days.

Other Information
To reduce the work in sowing and thinning the carrot row, consider using Seed Tape which is a biodegradable product where seeds are already pre-spaced. Planting using seed tape is easier, accurate and no thinning required! After planting, keep your carrot patch nice and moist to ensure better germination and to help young carrot plants emerge as sprouts will not push through dry crusted soil. Covering rows with finely sifted compost or potting soil is a great solution as they do not crust over like garden soil which can be very helpful in germinating the seed. Excellent to be eaten raw, cooked or juiced, these easy to grow vegetables are an excellent source of beta carotene and Vitamin A. Carrots can be thinned once they reach approximately 2.5-5 cm (1-2”) in height making sure to leave about 2.5-5 cm (1-2”) between plants. Water the carrots before thinning to make it easier to remove them. They can then be thinned again in another 3-4 weeks to leave approximately 4-8 cm between plants. Thinned out carrots at this “baby” stage can be enjoyed by lightly cooking and serving with butter, salt & pepper. Carrots can sometimes push out of the ground when growing so keep a watch on them and hill up soil over exposed roots to prevent green tops. The biggest reason for poor germination is lack of moisture. Moisture levels must be consistent from the time of planting and is essential for good root formation, texture and flavor. Be sure to continue watering during dry periods. Poor germination can also occur when soil temperatures become too hot. Soil temperatures 27°C (80°F) and greater can stop seeds from germinating.

Harvesting & Storage
Carrots can be dug up after the first hard frost. They can be harvested at any size throughout the season but the flavor is best once they have turned bright orange. Cut the green tops off approximately 1 cm (1/2”) above the crowns and store carrots in a cool, dark location or refrigerate to keep fresh. It is a good idea to inspect stored carrots regularly to monitor any decay.

Companion Planting
Likes: Bush beans, pole beans, lettuce, onion, pea, radish, tomato

Cauliflower Varieties

When to Plant
Sow directly outside in late spring or start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost.

Location/Soil
A cool weather crop that likes well drained, moisture retaining soil. Plant in full sun. Plants do best in rich soil – the addition of compost or well rotted manure to the planting area will keep the soil in great shape.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 13 mm (1/2″) apart. Plants should be spaced 45 cm (18″) apart with rows spaced 60 cm (24″) apart.When starting indoors, it is easiest to sow 3-4 seeds in a Jiffy pot and then thin to the strongest plant. It is best to have transplants set out into the garden by the time they have 6-8 leaves.Seeds germinate in approximately 7-10 days.

Days to Maturity
From the date transplanted into the garden. If sown direct into the garden, add approximately 20 days.

Other Information
Keep plants well watered throughout the growing season. Shade the developing cauliflower heads (curds) by tying up the leaves over the tops of the plants. It is important to keep the curds from sunlight so they are white and flavorful for harvesting. To reduce the risk of disease, it is ideal to practice crop rotation and plant in a different area of the garden that has not grown cauliflower or its relatives (broccoli, cabbage, kale) in the previous 2-3 years. Unstable environmental conditions like cold weather at time of transplanting, drought and extreme heat can cause the plant to produce very tiny heads at maturity or sometimes none at all.

Harvesting & Storage
Harvest when cauliflower heads are compact, firm and snowy white. Heads can also be harvested when solid and smaller in size (about ¾ of mature size). Heads left too long on the plant can loosen, become discolored and develop a strong flavor. To store, do not remove the outer leaves. Simply cut from the stalk and store in the crisper of the refrigerator up to 2 weeks. Also excellent for freezing.

Companion Planting
Likes: Beans, celery, oregano

How to Freeze Cauliflower
Harvest the vegetables on a day you have plenty of time to prepare them. Wash the vegetables thoroughly in cool water while you start a pot of water to boil. Also, make an ice bath in the side of a sink or in a large pail at the same time. Cut cauliflower into separate florets. When water is at a rolling boil, plunge them into boiling water for about 2-3 minutes and then remove from the boiling water with a slotted spoon or dump them into a strainer and place immediately into an ice bath for 30 seconds or longer to stop the cooking. Once the cauliflower has cooled, drain them and put into freezer bags. Seal them and label them with the name and date. Stow in the freezer for up to 6 months.

Corn Varieties

When to Plant
Sow the seeds directly into the garden when soil is thoroughly warm and all danger of frost has passed. If planting early be prepared to cover if there is a risk of frost.
Note: If seeding earlier in the season or soil is cooler or if seeding a super sweet variety it is beneficial to double seeding rate for a better outcome.

Location/Soil
All varieties of corn require soil that is highly fertile with good drainage. Prior to sowing it is beneficial to work a generous amount of compost or well-rotted manure into the soil. Note that corn is a tall growing vegetable and can shade other crops so is usually best suited to a garden site on the north or east side. Ideally it is best to choose a location where corn was not planted the year before. A great location is where beans or peas were planted the previous season so the corn can benefit from the nitrogen-enriched soil the beans and peas have provided.

Planting & Growing Information
Plant in double rows to make sure that cross pollination occurs. Sow seeds 5 cm (2”) deep. Super Sweet seed can be planted at a shallower level 2.5 cm (1”). Seeds can be planted 3 per hill or 10 cm (4″) apart in rows. Row spacing 60 cm (24”). Thin plants to approximately 30 cm (12”) apart in a row. Seeds germinate in approximately 7-14 days. If you are planting more than one variety of corn make sure to isolate them from each other in the garden to prevent cross-pollination. Best when different varieties are separated approximately 7.5 m (25’) to avoid the starchy, tough kernels that result from cross pollination of 2 different varieties.

Note: Corn crops can vary in days to maturity depending on weather conditions and individual garden locations. 

Other Information
Adequate moisture is essential during ear formation which means from the time the tassels appear until the ears are ready for harvest. Cobs with missing kernels can be caused by improper pollination which can occur if corn is planted in single rows or if there is a very heavy rain at the time of pollination.

Harvesting & Storage
For maximum flavor, corn is best eaten soon after it has been picked. Cool temperatures help to slow down the conversion of the corn’s natural sugar to starch. When storing corn for a short period of time prior to eating, it is better to leave husks on the corn and refrigerate but if husks have been removed, store cobs in a plastic bag and refrigerate. If you want to enjoy some of that wonderful home grown corn throughout the cooler months it is a very easy to make freezer corn. 

Companion Planting
Likes: Bean, cucumber, melon, pea, pumpkin, potato, radish

Freezing Corn
Remove corn from husks. Bring a large pot approximately ¾ full of water to boil. Have a large bowl or sink full of ice water. Blanch the corn – this requires adding the cobs to the boiling water for approximately 5-10 minutes depending on the size of the cobs (the larger the cobs the longer the blanching period). This process is done to preserve flavor and sweetness. Once cobs are removed from the boiling water immediately place in the ice water to cool them. Leave them in the ice water for the same amount of time they were in the boiling water. You will need to keep adding hot water to the boiling water on the stove to keep the pot ¾ full. It is key to have this boiling prior to placing the cobs into the pot for blanching and water should return to boil after cobs have been placed in the pot within 1-2 minutes of placing cobs in the boiling water – if not add less cobs or get a larger pot. Large pots for canning work amazing for this. You will also need to keep adding ice and cold water to the cooling bowl or sink during the process. It is essential that the cobs cool quickly to stop the cooking process. Once cobs are cooled the kernels can be removed from the cob by using a wonderful and handy tool called a corn cutter. It is the fastest and easiest way to remove corn from the cob. It cuts whole kernels or scrapes the cob for a cream style corn. Corn will come often come off in strips which will easily separate into kernels when placed in freezer bags. Place the desired amount for freezing in freezer bags and remove air from bags prior to freezing. The removal of air prevents drying and freezer burn. Removing the air from the bag is as simple as using the straw to suck out excess air before sealing shut. Label the bags and place in the freezer and you’re done!

Understanding Corn and Abbreviations
Standard Sweet Corn (SU) – The SU types of sweet corn are often quicker to mature than other types of sweet corn. Conversion of the kernel sugars into starch occurs rapidly after harvest and the post-harvest lifespan of SU cultivars is therefore limited. Can tolerate somewhat cooler planting conditions than the sh2 corn varieties. 
Sugar Enhanced (SE) Sweet Corn – Sugar enhanced sweet corn kernels have higher sugar content than standard sweet (SU) types and the rate of conversion of these sugars to starch after harvest is slower. These two factors improve the post-harvest quality of the SE types relative to the SU types. Kernels of SE types of sweet corn are more tender, with a higher moisture content than supersweet sh2 types. Can tolerate somewhat cooler planting conditions than the sh2 corn varieties.
Super Sweet (SH2) Corn Hybrid – Contain the shrunken (sh2) gene and get their name from the appearance of the dried kernel. They have an exceptionally high kernel sugar content and very slow conversion of these sugars to starch after harvest. Consequently, Super Sweet types of corn hold their quality for extended periods after harvest. The sh2 types of corn are typically planted later than SU and SE types as the small Super Sweet sh2 seed is sensitive to cool wet soil conditions

Cucumber Varieties

When to Plant
Plant directly in the ground after danger of frost is past and soil is warm. For an earlier crop, start indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost using 3-4” Jiffy peat pots and making sure to weather/harden off the plants before setting them in the ground. Roots should be disturbed as little as possible while transplanting.

Location/Soil
Plant in warm, well drained soil in full sun. Soil should be well worked and kept moist.If planted too early in cool damp soil, germination rates will be significantly decreased.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 10 cm (4″) apart. Rows should be spaced 1.2 m (48″) apart. Seeds germinate in approximately 8-10 days.

Other Information
Cucumbers are shallow rooting so it is advisable to mulch around the plant to keep the soil moist. Bitterness in cucumbers develops when the plant is stressed by hot, dry weather. Raised beds are an excellent location for cucumbers and many gardeners have successfully grown them on a trellis to save on space. Cucumbers grow vigorously and are heavy feeders. The addition of compost or well-rotted manure to the areas where cucumbers are to be planted is an excellent way to provide a good source of nutrients for these plants. Consider planting near corn where the height of the corn shelters cucumbers from the wind and helps hold the heat which cucumbers love. Poorly-shaped fruit are usually the result of poor pollination. For most cucumber varieties the first yellow flowers appearing on the plants are male flowers that provide pollen. These flowers normally drop off after blooming. The small cucumber is evident at the base of the female flower (even before it opens) and should develop into an edible fruit if properly pollinated. Anything that interferes with pollination of the female flowers reduces fruit set and yield, including cold temperatures and rainy weather. Cucumbers will not cross-pollinate with squashes, pumpkins, muskmelons, or watermelons.

Harvesting & Storage
Regular harvesting from plants will give higher yields. Cucumbers can be picked at various stages of their growing period to be enjoyed for eating and pickling.

Companion Planting
Likes: Bean, celery, lettuce, pea, radish

Cucumbers Explained
English Cucumbers are long, thin, with a dark green skin. Mild in flavor, English cucumbers are prized for their thin skin and minimal seeds. English cucumbers are best sliced and raw and are not good for pickling.

Pickling Cucumbers are best for pickling because they are mild tasting and very firm and crisp.

Slicing Cucumbers are good by themselves, in salads or in most cucumber recipes, slicing cucumbers have smooth skins and unobtrusive seeds.

Burpless Cucumbers are less acidic and therefore tend to cause less indigestion for people prone to it.

Space Saving Cucumbers are bush variety cucumbers can be grown in containers or in the ground.

Beit Alpha Cucumbers are parthenocarpic, all female multi fruited hybrids that do not require pollination and offer a tremendous yield potential. These varieties should not be planted side by side with standard varieties to prevent cross-pollination and seed development.

Cool Breeze Cucumbers are another type of parthenocarpic variety.

Cucumber Genetics
Cucumbers and other vine crops are monoecious. Monoecious plants have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. Gynoecious varieties are special hybrids which produce predominantly female flowers. As a result, the non-fertilized fruit do not contain seeds. Parthenocarpic varieties must be isolated from standard varieties to prevent cross-pollination and seed development. Cucumber varieties may cross with one another. However, the quality of this year’s crop is not affected. (An exception is the cross-pollination of parthenocarpic varieties with standard varieties.)

Garlic Varieties

When to Plant
Plant as soon as possible in the spring.

Location/Soil
Garlic grows best in a rich, well drained soil in full sun. The addition of compost is beneficial. Try to plant in an area that was not previously planted with garlic or onions to reduce the opportunities for pests and diseases.

Planting & Growing Information 
Separate bulbs into individual cloves and plant 10-15 cm (4-6”) apart. Plant 2.5-5 cm (1-2”) deep with the tips (pointed end) of the cloves up.

Other Information
Keep planting area well weeded. Stop watering shortly before harvest to allow the ground to dry around the bulbs and increase the storage quality of the bulb. Bulbs will not reach a large size if planted late in the season.It is best to separate the cloves from the bulb just before planting – this prevents the root nodules from drying and the garlic will be able to set roots quickly. 

Harvesting & Storage
Allow the tops of the garlic plant to fall over on their own. Garlic is ready to harvest once the leaves have withered and dried. Harvest bulbs once they reach maturity – they loose some of their storage quality if left too long in the garden. Pull plants and allow the garlic to dry for a few days either outdoors if weather allows or in a warm, dry basement/garage. To store garlic, make sure it has had enough time to dry then either braid the garlic or tie in bunches and keep in a cool, dry area.

Winter Greens Project
Consider planting a small pot of garlic during the winter months for some fresh garlic greens. Garlic cloves planted this way will not produce garlic heads but the wonderful greens they grow can be used in all kinds of recipes. Separate cloves from the bulb, leaving the peel on, and plant 8-10 garlic cloves closely together in a pot. Place on a sunny windowsill and keep moist. Green sprouts should start to appear after a week and once they are 15-20 cm (6-8”) tall harvest the greens with a pair of scissors and enjoy. Cloves should supply a few cutting before they stop producing. If you don’t have any garlic on hand a bulb from the grocery store will work just the same. The perfect winter windowsill garden for some color and flavor!

Roasting Garlic
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.Slice off the very top of the garlic head. Place in a piece of foil and drizzle olive oil inside the head of garlic until it is completely filled. Wrap tightly with foil and place on a cookie sheet and bake until tender and fragrant, for 30-35 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. Peel outside off of bulb of garlic and gently squeeze each clove out.Use in the recipe of your desire, or simply spread on bread for a wonderful addition to any meal.

Lettuce Varieties

When to Plant
Lettuce germinates and grows well in the cool weather of the spring and fall. Lettuce can be planted directly into garden once danger of frost has passed and also sown in late summer for a fall crop. Lettuce can also be started indoors in early spring and transplanted into the garden once leaves are 2.5-5 cm (1-2”) tall.

Location/Soil
Lettuce can be grown in most locations but does best in rich, well drained soil.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 2.5 cm (1″) apart. Rows should be spaced 45 cm (18″) apart. Seedlings can be thinned out to approximately 20 cm (8”) apart. A row can be as simple as single row or can be in a band up to 30 cm (12”) wide. The wide row option allows for an easier scattering of seeds at time of planting and is a nice way to mix several varieties together when planting for a colorful tasty mixture. Seeds germinate in approximately 7-10 days.

Days to Maturity
Transplanted lettuce plants will be ready one to two weeks earlier depending on conditions.

Other Information
In hot weather lettuce can go to seed quickly (bolt). It’s easy to tell when a plant has bolted, because it will send out long shoots topped by flowers that will eventually contain seeds. Successive planting will provide a continual lettuce harvest. Young leaves are wonderful and tasty salad greens. Adequate moisture is essential for the production of crisp and tender leaves. A steady supply of moisture is critical in head lettuce when heads are forming. Leaf lettuce is an excellent addition to containers – it looks and tastes great. Just trim back when ready for some lettuce and let grow up again.

Harvesting & Storage
Harvest in the morning when leaves are crisp and full of moisture. Leaf lettuce can be cut off at ground level, allow it to grow again for a second crop. Lettuce stored in the refrigerator will stay crisp for 2-3 days.

Companion Planting
Likes: Carrots, radishes, strawberry

Lettuce Examined

Butterhead – This type of lettuce received its name because the leaves have a buttery smooth texture. These tender, cupped leaves work beautifully in salads. Butterhead varieties form a loose-leaf head with thicker leaves than other common lettuce varieties.

Head – Head lettuce varieties are recognized by their compact round head of leaves and are often the mildest in taste. They produce firm heads with a crisp texture and crunchy taste.

Leaf – Leaf lettuce varieties produce leaves in a bunch instead of a head. They grow the fastest and are often preferred by people who wish to grow vegetables at home. Leaf lettuce re-sprouts from a cut stem without losing quality in flavor or texture.

Romaine – Romaine lettuce is also known as cos lettuce. It is an upright plant that forms narrow, elongated leaves that grow outwards. It is the most nutritious lettuce with a wonderful crispy texture.

Mesclun – Mesclun (meaning mixed) is a mixture of greens. Typically composed of several varieties of young greens and harvested when the leaves reach the desired size of approximately 8-15 cm (3-6”) Some mixtures are called “spicy” meaning that they have more arugula, watercress, mizuna, and mustard leaves to add some tangy zip!

Onion Varieties

When to Plant
Start seed indoors 8-10 weeks early and transplant outside in spring. Or directly seed into the garden in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked.

Location/Soil
In full sun, plant onions in a rich, fertile and well drained area of the garden. Crop rotation is a must to deter disease and pests. It is recommended to wait 4-5 years before planting onions in the same location again.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 2.5 cm (1″) apart. If sowing direct be sure to thin young seedlings so that plants are spaced 5-10 cm (2-4″) apart with rows spaced 30 cm (12″) apart.Seeds germinate in approximately 12-14 days.

Other Information
Use thinned seedlings that are removed from the row in salads and other dishes – they are delicious!Keep onions well watered during the season to ensure proper bulb development. 

Harvesting & Storage
Onions can be harvested at anytime throughout the growing season depending on the needs of the gardener and how the onions are to be used. In late-summer or fall, when onion tops begin to fall over, turn brown and wither, it is time to harvest. Pull the onions and if possible just leave where they are in the garden to dry in the sun or spread bulbs out in a dry place for up to week. Once the outer layer of the onion becomes well dried (cured) they can be stored. Onions can be stored in a cool dry location. Use a mesh bag or old nylon stockings to store onions to make sure there is good air circulation. Onions stored at room temperature will not last as long.Well cured onions can keep well into later winter – check regularly for any sprouting or rotted bulbs.

Companion Planting
Likes: Bean sprout, broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, strawberry tomato.

Onions Examined
There are many different varieties of onions, which can generally be placed in one of two categories: green or dry.
Dry onions refer to large, bulbous onions that have a shiny outer layer of skin. Unlike the green onion, dry onion types are harvested once the shoots die off. They come in different colors, ranging from red, to yellow, and white. Dry onions are also categorized as either sweet or storage varieties. Sweet varieties (like Walla Walla) are best used up shortly after harvest and storage varieties (like Onion Redwing), when properly cured, can last well into the winter months.

Green Onion – Also known as, spring onion, salad onion, or scallion, and bunching onion, they are milder than other onions. They are harvested while their shoots are still young and green. They can be chopped and used as a topping or an ingredient.

Leek – A pale green and white member of the onion family, the unique mild flavor of the leek can be compared to a cross between onion and cucumber. The edible part of the leek, also known as the stalk or stem, is a bundle of leaf sheaths. Best when eaten raw, made into leek soup or fried, since boiling makes them mushy.

Shallots – closely related to multiplier onions, but smaller. At maturity, shallot bulbs resemble small onions. They are eaten fresh or cooked, chopped or boiled. Shallots have a delicate onion/garlic flavor when cooked that adds to but does not overpower other flavors.

Multipliers – At maturity, this type of onion produces small clusters of onion bulbs that are excellent for cooking. Earlier in the season the greens can be harvested for eating. Depending on the needs of the gardener, multipliers can be harvested and used throughout the season whether it is the young fresh greens, early onion or mature bulb.

Red Onions – Wonderful onions with purplish red skin and white flesh tinged with purple. An all around winning selection with a mild to sweet flavor which is excellent when eaten raw in salads or on burgers but are also a terrific onion for cooking. The flesh loses its purplish color when the onion is cooked.

Spanish Onions – These onions have a rich golden colored skin. They tend to have a particularly sweet, mild flavor making them wonderful to eat raw or include in a variety of cooking dishes. These are similar to yellow onions, only larger and a bit sweeter.

White Onions – An onion with a white skin and a strong tasting white flesh. Use white onions raw in salads, barbecued on shish kebabs, in stews and soups, on sandwiches and in meat dishes.

Yellow Onions – The most common type of onion, yellow onions have a brown skin and white flesh. Yellow onions have a nice strong flavor and are suitable for most any recipe. 

Onion Sets
An onion set is a small bulb. When planted it will grow a larger bulb and is an ideal selection for gardeners who cannot start onions early. They are easy to plant and quickly develop into onion bulbs. Plant approximately 2.5 cm (1”) deep or so that only the tip shows above the ground and about 8 cm (3”) apart.

Pea Varieties

There are basically two types of peas: shelling which is the traditional type of garden pea and edible-podded which includes snow peas and sugar snap varieties.

When to Plant
A cool weather crop, peas do very well when planted early in the season once the soil can be worked. Consider planting both early and late-maturing varieties for an extended harvest period.

Location/Soil
Well drained soil in full sun is best. Planting where beans and peas have not been grown for at least a year will help reduce insect and disease problems. Ideally it is best to rotate peas to new areas of the garden each without repeating in an area for 4 years.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 2.5 cm (1”) deep and 2.5 cm (1”) apart. Row spacing 75 cm (30”).Seeds germinate in approximately 5-10 days. 

Other Information
Pea plants need regular moisture from the time they are in blossom until the end of the season for higher yields and better quality. Peas will not be as sweet when grown in dry conditions. Edible-podded peas include both Snow Peas and Snap Peas. 

Snow Peas have flat, tender pods with small, undeveloped peas inside.

Snap Peas have crunchy, delicious plump pods with sweet full-sized peas inside.

Harvesting & Storage
Although peas can be grown without supports, they are easier to pick when they have been grown on a support. When harvesting, use two hands or pinch off pods or try using scissors. Be careful not to break the brittle pea vines. Pick when young and tender for best flavor. Color will fade and pods will harden when overripe. Snow peas should be harvested when peas are undeveloped and pods are young, bright green and flat. Best to use up snow peas soon after harvest since they quickly lose their sugar content after picked. Harvest regularly to increase the yield. Snap peas can be harvested when the pods are plump and crisp. They can be eaten at any stage, pods and all without removing the string. Best when used same day they are picked but can be stored in plastic bags in the refrigerator.

Companion Planting
Likes: Beans, Carrot, corn, cucumber, radish 

Prepare Garden Peas or Sugar Peas for Freezing
In a large pot with tight fitting lid, fill approximately 2/3 full of water and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, prepare shelled peas or edible-podded peas for blanching by washing, trimming and stringing as necessary. Drop peas into boiling water and immediately cover with a tight fitting lid. (Ideally it is best not to blanch more than one pound of peas at a time). Blanch shelled peas for 1 ½ – 2 minutes and pods for 5 minutes. Prepare an ice water bath in a large 5 to 6 quart container or use the sink. Remove the peas from the blanching water with a slotted spoon or blanching basket. Emerge the peas in the ice water bath for 5 min. or until completely cool. If ice is unavailable, use several changes of cold tap water to cool the vegetables. Remove from water and drain. Label and date freezer bags. Pack peas into prepared freezer bags, squeeze out as much air as possible. Using a straw to suck out the excess air work best and then seal and freeze. Peas can be frozen for up to a year.
Note: Blanching water and ice water bath may be used over and over again. Return blanching water to a boil after each batch of vegetables is blanched and replenish water if necessary. 

Glazed Snap Peas
12 oz sugar snap peas (approximately 3 ½ cups)
2 Tbsp honey
1 Tbsp butter
½ tsp salt
1/8 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
2-3 Tbsp bacon bits
Cook peas in large saucepan of boiling salted water for 2 minutes; drain.Stir in honey, butter, salt and pepper flakes.
Sprinkle with bacon.
Delicious!

Pepper Varieties

Peppers are generally classified in two categories – either hot or sweet.

When to Plant
Start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost. Once all danger of frost has passed transplant into the garden. Young seedlings need to be hardened off prior to transplanting.

Location/Soil
Peppers prefer warm sunny area of the garden. They are also an excellent selection for container gardening.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 6 mm (1/4″) deep and 5 cm (2″) apart. Plants should be spaced 45 cm (18″) apart with rows spaced 60 cm (24″) apart. Seeds germinate in approximately 7-14 days.

Other Information
Make sure plants do not dry out. Consistent moisture throughout the growing season will provide the best harvesting results.

Harvesting & Storage
All peppers start off green and will change to their mature color as they are allowed to ripen on the plant. Peppers can be picked when green which will increase the number of peppers produced from the plant or they can be left on the plant to ripen to their mature color. Size and color give you the best clues when to harvest hot and sweet peppers. Often the decision of when to harvest is influenced by the intended use of a particular pepper. Depending on what the ultimate use will be, the optimum time to pick will vary considerably. When harvesting, gently remove peppers from the plant. If they don’t come away from the plant easily use a knife to remove the pepper so the plant remains undamaged. Once peppers begin to turn color, they progress quickly so should be monitored carefully. Once they reach their final color, peppers deteriorate very fast and should be picked right away.
Caution: Always be careful when handling hot peppers. Wear plastic or rubber gloves and do not touch your face while handling or cutting hot peppers as the juice can burn skin and is especially dangerous if rubbed in the eyes or face. If you do not wear gloves, wash hands thoroughly with soap and water before touching your face or eyes.

Hot Peppers are typically green in early maturity but quickly turn colors including yellow, orange, purple and red depending on the variety as they ripen. Although they can be picked when green, their heat and flavor increases as they are allowed to mature and ripen to colors. Yields are smaller for hot peppers.

Sweet Bell Pepper varieties can be harvested and eaten when firm and full size but still green. Flavor and vitamin C content improves as they ripen on the plant. The less green you see, the sweeter the taste.

Companion Planting
Sweet Peppers
Likes: Basil, Tomato, rhubarb, eggplant, Lettuce, Asparagus, Parsley, Silver Beet, Spinach

Hot Peppers
Likes: Onion, Lettuce, Squash, Sweet Pepper, Cucumber

To Freeze Sweet Bell Peppers
Wash and core peppers. Chop, dice or slice according to how you plan to use them. Spread in a single layer on a tray of a cookie sheet. Place tray in the freezer for an hour or longer. Loosen pepper pieces from the tray and pour into zip closure freezer bags. Immediately place sealed bags in the freezer. The pepper pieces will remain separated for ease of measuring. Simply remove as many as you need, reseal the bag and return to the freezer.

To Freeze Hot Peppers (includes Jalapeno Peppers)
Wash peppers with cool water and allow to air dry. De-stem the hot peppers by inserting a small knife where the base of the stem meets the top of the pepper and cut the stem free by working the knife around the entire edge of the stem. Pull out the stem, discard it and then shake out as many seeds as you can. Hot peppers can be sliced or freeze them whole as it is not necessary to cut or chop the hot peppers before freezing. Either way, pack the clean, dry, de-stemmed peppers into freezer bags, leaving ½ inch of headroom at the top of the bag. Seal the bag, being sure to squeeze as much air out of the bag as possible. Immediately place the bagged peppers into the freezer.
Caution: Always be careful when handling hot peppers. Wear plastic or rubber gloves and do not touch your face while handling or cutting hot peppers as the juice can burn skin and is especially dangerous if rubbed in the eyes or face. If you do not wear gloves, wash hands thoroughly with soap and water before touching your face or eyes.

When to Plant
Potatoes can be planted quite early in the spring. Plant up to 10 days before the last heavy frost date in the spring.

Location/Soil
Try to choose a location in the garden that did NOT have potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant or peppers growing in the previous 1-2 years.

Planting & Growing Information
Plant either whole or cut tubers. If cutting the tubers make sure to have 2-3 eyes on each section and allow 24 hours after cutting the tubers so they can callous over prior to planting.Plant every 30 cm (12”) in rows spaced 30 cm (12”) apart. Cover with 2.5-5 cm (1-2”) of soil.

Other Information
Potatoes will benefit from having compost or well-rotten manure worked into the planting area. Do not use fresh manure as it can encourage the disease “potato scab”. Planting with whole tubers reduces the chances of rotting. Tubers that are kept in a warm location (15°C / 60°F) prior to planting will appear in the garden sooner. When plants are 15-20 cm (6-8”) tall, hoe up to 10 cm (4”) of soil between the rows to create hills. This helps to preserve moisture and ensure the potato tubers are not exposed to sunlight which can cause green on the potatoes making them inedible. Water regularly for better yields and plant growth. Potato plants can produce small green fruits that resemble tomatoes – they are small seed balls which are the fruits that contain the true seeds. They are not edible.

Harvesting & Storage
You don’t want to harvest all of the potatoes at once. You will want to leave some potatoes to grow and be harvested later. Harvesting can begin once they are big enough to eat. Small potatoes will be present around the time of flowering or shortly after. Generally 1-2 weeks after blossoms appear is when some harvesting can begin. To check, simply remove some of the soil away from the hill and pull away some tubers away from the roots. The plant won’t be harmed and can still produce potatoes until ready to lift the plant entirely. To harvest potatoes, you will want to dig under the plants with either your shovel or your spading fork being careful not to damage the potatoes in the digging process. Once underneath the plant with your shovel or spading fork, lift the entire plant and shake the soil off of it and pull the potatoes you want from the vine. For fall storage, wait for a couple of weeks after the vines have died (often from a frost) which will allow the skins to toughen up or “set” so they can be stored longer. Allow harvested potatoes to dry/cure in a dark area prior to storage.
Note: It is best to plant each year’s crop with new certified seed to help avoid potential problems.

Potato Beetles
Potato bugs/beetles are a voracious and destructive garden pest. They have very efficient chewing mouthparts equipped with sharp cutting edges. If left unchecked they can decimate crops in a very short time, sometimes leaving behind nothing but stripped plant stalks. Potato beetles can build a resistance to most sprays so other methods of control are often more effective:
• Clean up garden or field debris so the potato bugs have inadequate shelter to over-winter.
• Do not plant potatoes in the same spot each year – crop rotation is a must!
• Hand picking may sound unpleasant but it can work quite well. It’s one of the most efficient and least harmful ways to control potato beetles. Simply pick them off the plant and put in an old soup can that has some soap based insecticide or even kerosene in it to kill them.
• There are different chemical applications that can be found in garden centers – talk to a professional where purchasing these products so you are completely informed on the product and any risks.

Radish Varieties

When to Plant
Directly seed into rich well-drained soil as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. Repeat every 10 days except during hot weather.

Location/Soil
Best when planted in a rich, moist, well-drained soil in full sun.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 13 mm (1/2″) apart. Plants should be spaced/thinned to approximately 5 cm (2″) apart with rows spaced 30 cm (12″) apart. Seeds germinate in approximately 4-7 days. 

Other Information
Radishes can be sown with slower growing vegetables like carrots and onions to help mark the rows. They grow quickly and can be harvested before they create much competition for the other vegetables. Radishes prefer cooler weather so successive sowings up until early summer will give a steady supply of nice crisp radishes. Radishes need to be kept well watered so that they grow well and taste great. If they have periods of drought they will become hot and woody. Better to plant smaller amounts and continue to sow at 1-2 week intervals until mid-July to enjoy smaller yet usable harvests. Plants under stress from hot temperatures or other environmental extremes will cause the radish to bolt to seed. You can tell when a plant has bolted because it will send out long shoots topped by flowers that will eventually contain seeds.

Harvesting & Storage
Begin harvesting radishes once large enough to eat. Once radishes are full size be sure to harvest the entire crop to be washed and stored in the refrigerator where they can be used up until the next sowing is ready to harvest. Radishes washed and stored inside plastic bags in the crisper of the refrigerator will stay in good shape for a few weeks.

Companion Planting
Likes: Beans, Carrots, Cucumber, Lettuce, Melons, Peas, Squash, Kohlrabi

Spinach Varieties

When to Plant
Sow outdoors as soon as ground can be worked.

Location/Soil
Spinach is a cool weather crop that likes well drained, moisture retaining soil. Plant in full sun. Plants do best in rich soil.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 2.5 cm (1″) apart. Plants should be spaced 25 cm (10″) apart with rows spaced 40 cm (16″) apart. Seeds germinate in approximately 7-21 days.

Other Information
Long, hot summer days can cause spinach to bolt. Plant seeds in individual rows or sow in a wider section like a 30 cm (1’) band. This works well in small or square foot gardening spaces. If limited on space or want to try something knew, mix different greens together to make your own salad bed. Spinach does very well in a container. Do not allow plants to dry out – be sure to water during dry spells. Rapid changes in temperature and moisture levels can cause spinach to become bitter.

Harvesting & Storage
Whole plants can be harvested by cutting them off just above the soil level or baby leaves can be picked throughout the growing season as needed. Wash well before using.Store in refrigerator up to 4 days.

Companion Planting
Likes: Celery, cauliflower, eggplant

How to Freeze Spinach
Frozen spinach is an excellent to have available for lasagna and other favorite dishes. Make sure you have a lot available as once spinach is steamed it is significantly reduced in size.
• Wash spinach
• Place a steamer basket in a large stock pot and fill with water to just below the basket
• Bring water to boil
• Add spinach to the pot and cover 
• Steam for approximately 1 minute until the spinach wilts
• Remove steamed spinach from the pot and set out to cool in a colander
• Once the spinach is cool enough to handle fill freezer bags with desired amount
• Label, Date and Freeze
• Freezer spinach will last up to one year

Squash Varieties

Squash is divided into two classes – summer squash and winter squash. Summer squash have softer skin, while winter squash have hard shells.

Winter Squashes 
Acorn
Butternut
Buttercup
Spaghetti Squash
Squash High Beta Gold
Sunshine Squash
Pumpkin

Summer Squashes
Zucchini
Crookneck Summer Squash
Straightneck Summer Squash
Squash Sungreen

When to Plant
Sow directly into the garden once the danger of frost has passed or for an earlier crop, start indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost using 3-4” Jiffy peat pots and make sure to weather/harden off the plants before setting them in the ground.

Location/Soil
Best when planted in a rich, moist, well-drained soil in full sun. Transplants should only go into the garden once soil is completely warmed.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 2.5 cm (1″) deep and sow 5-6 seeds per hill or 5 cm (2″) apart. Plants should be spaced/thinned to approximately 3 plants per hill or 15 cm (6″) apart. Rows should be spaced 1.5-1.8 m (5-6′) apart. Seeds germinate in approximately 5-12 days.

Other Information
The size of your garden may determine which squash varieties to grow – squash plants require a large space. Smaller fruited varieties can be trained up a trellis which can help save space. Keep soil adequately moist throughout the season and give plants a nice deep watering once a week. When watering, try to avoid wetting the plant’s leaves as this can encourage disease.
Spaghetti Squash – After cooking, this interesting squash can be pulled out in strands similar in appearance to spaghetti. Popular with kids! 

Harvesting & Storage
Summer squash tastes better when smaller in size so for best quality and flavor, they should be harvested when young and tender. Squash grow rapidly so it is a good idea to regularly (every 1 or 2 days) check for more, especially in hot weather. Often summer squashes are harvested too late when the fruit is large and hard. Most elongated varieties are picked when they are 2-3 inches in diameter and 6 to 8 inches long. Regular harvesting will increase the yield. Use a sharp knife or pruning shears to harvest and wear gloves if possible as the leafstalks and stems are prickly and can scratch and irritate unprotected hands and arms.
To store summer squash, harvest small squash and place, unwashed in plastic bags in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Wash the squash just before preparation. As with most vegetables, water droplets promote decay during storage. The storage life of summer squash is brief, so use within two to three days. Winter squash can be usually be harvested when the vines have died or around the time of a light frost. The fruits will have turned a deep, solid color and the rind will be hard (not easily pierced by a fingernail). Harvest the main part of the crop before heavy frosts hit your area. Cut squash from the vines carefully, leaving two inches of stem attached. Avoid cuts and bruises when handling. Fruits that are not fully mature, have been injured, have had their stems knocked off, or have been subjected to heavy frost do not keep and should be used as soon as possible or be composted.Store on a shelf (not on cement floor) in a cool dry location around 10-13°C (50-55°F). 

Companion Planting
Likes: Corn, onion, radish

EatingSummer squash can be grilled, steamed, boiled, sautéed, fried or used in stir fry recipes. They mix well with onions, tomatoes and okra in vegetable medleys. Summer squash can be used interchangeably in most recipes.To cook winter squash, place unpeeled pieces cut sides down on a shallow baking dish and bake in a 350°F oven for 30 minutes or longer. Check for doneness by piercing with a fork or skewer. When tender, remove from the oven and allow the pieces to cool. Spoon out the soft flesh and mash with a fork or process in a blender or food processor. Small acorn squash and spaghetti squash can be pierced in several places with a long-tined fork or metal skewer and baked whole. Piercing prevents the shell from bursting during cooking. Place the squash on a baking dish and bake for 1 1/2 to 2 hours at 325°F.

Swish Chard Varieties

When to Plant
Sow directly in the garden in the spring once the last of the hard frosts have passed.

Location/Soil
Plant in full sun.The addition of organic matter prior to planting is an excellent way to increase soil quality by improving nutrient levels, increasing moisture retention in the soil as well as soil aeration. It is best to break up any large clumps of soil prior to planting and rake the soil to obtain the optimal soil structure.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 2.5 cm (1″) apart. Rows should be spaced 45 cm (18″) apart. When seedlings are approximately 5 cm (2”) tall, thin the seedlings to 10 cm (4″) apart.Seeds germinate in approximately 7-10 days.

Other Information
Grown for their leaves and stems where the leaves are eaten like spinach and the colorful stems are cooked like asparagus. Small leaves are a colorful addition to salads as well. Water regularly for optimum growth which also helps reduce the likelihood of plants bolting (going to seed). Leaves of Swiss Chard are very decorative and can easily be added to containers or flower gardens for a wonderful effect with the added bonus of harvesting a healthy vegetable that can be eaten fresh in salads or lightly steamed with butter.

Harvesting & Storage
Harvesting can occur in a few ways. The whole plant can be cut away approximately 2” from the ground and the entire plant will grow again or just remove the outer larger leaves and leave the inner young leaves to keep growing and harvested later. Swiss Chard does not store well for a long period of time and should be eaten the same day of picking or stored inside plastic bags the refrigerator and used in 3-4 days.

Companion Planting
Likes: Beans, Cabbage, Onion, Tomato

Tomato Varieties

When to Plant
Start seed indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Plant seedlings outdoors once all danger of frost has passed and soil has warmed.

Location/Soil
Tomatoes prefer a warm sunny and sheltered area of the garden. Deep, well drained soil is best. Tomatoes are an excellent selection for container gardening as well.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 6 mm (1/4″) deep and 2.5 cm (1″) apart. Plants should be spaced 60-90 cm (24-36″) apart with rows spaced 90 cm (36″) apart.Seeds germinate in approximately 7-14 days.

Other Information
Make sure plants do not dry out. Consistent moisture throughout the growing season will provide the best harvesting results and help reduce potential problems. Regular fertilizing throughout the season helps plants obtain their maximum potential. Many gardeners find it easiest to add a small amount of all purpose fertilizer (20-20-20) at each watering once plant is established. In regards to the growth habit of the tomato plant, there are 2 types – bush tomatoes and staking tomatoes. Garden size and the needs of each individual gardener must be considered when deciding whether to plant bush (determinate) or staking (indeterminate) varieties.

Bush Tomatoes / Determinate Growers
Determinate tomatoes, or “bush” tomatoes, are varieties that grow to a compact height (generally 3 – 4′). Determinate varieties stop growing when fruit sets on the top bud. All the tomatoes from the plant ripen at approximately the same time (usually over a period of 1- 2 weeks). They require a limited amount of staking for support and are well suited for container planting. Determinate tomato plants do not need to be pruned.

Staking Tomatoes / Indeterminate Growers Indeterminate
These varieties grow, bloom, set new fruit and ripen fruit all at the same time throughout the season. They require substantial staking for support and benefit from being controlled to a central growing stem. They are an excellent solution for small gardens where there is usually more room for plants to move upwards instead of spreading out. 

Pruning
Pruning tomato plants helps your plant direct its energy toward producing fruit rather than producing more foliage. Not only is larger fruit produced earlier in the season, but plants are also protected against potential pest and disease problems. To prune, what you need to watch for are the tomato “suckers,” which grow in the “V” space between the main stem and the branches on your tomato plant. To prune, simply remove these “suckers” by pinching them off with your fingers. This can be done when they are smaller than two inches tall. If they are larger than two inches, be sure to use a pair of clean pruners that you disinfect as you move from plant to plant to protect against spreading diseases. It is best to prune when the “suckers” are small to avoid stressing the plant by removing large amounts of foliage at once. A simple task that can be done while watering or weeding throughout the season and one that will result in healthier plants and bigger fruits with very little effort.

Harvesting & Storage
Harvest tomatoes from the plant once they are ripe. Extend harvesting through light frosts by covering if possible. At the end of the season when plants must be picked of their remaining green tomatoes, place the green tomatoes in a cool dark location indoors to ripen (paper bags are good if you only have a few tomatoes or try a cardboard box lined with newspaper for larger quantities). Check regularly for ripened tomatoes and watch for any decay or rot which could spread to surrounding tomatoes. Store tomatoes at room temperature for best flavor and if necessary to store longer, they can be refrigerated. 

Companion Planting
Likes: Asparagus, celery, carrot, parsley, marigold

How to Make Sun-dried Tomatoes
Small meaty tomatoes are ideal for drying. Plum or Roma tomatoes work very well but other varieties will work too – experiment to see what you like best! Prepare your tomatoes for drying by cutting smaller tomatoes like the cherry types or the smaller Italian varieties in half. Larger tomatoes will need to be cut into ½ inch slices. Drain your tomatoes slightly on paper towels. If you want you can sprinkle lightly with salt or other herbs to season them prior to drying for more flavors. If you have a dehydrator, place the tomatoes on the racks of your dehydrator, leaving enough space between the pieces for the air to circulate. Drying tomatoes in your dehydrator may take from 8 to 16 hours, depending on the thickness of your slices. To oven dry, place tomatoes in single layers on wire racks or foil lined cookie sheets. Oven temperature should be between 140 and 150 degrees, or set temperature on warm and prop the door open slightly. Oven drying will take from 10 to 24 hours. Racks or cookie sheets may need to be rotated throughout the drying process. When the tomatoes are dried they should be leathery but pliable, but non-sticky (raisin-like texture). Do not over dry. To store your tomatoes, let them cool completely, and put in bags or glass jars with an airtight lid. They will keep this way for up to 6 months. If wanting longer storage, put them in the freezer. To rehydrate your tomatoes if need be, soak them for 5 to 10 minutes in hot water, broth, or wine to cover. To store your tomatoes in oil, you will first need to rehydrate your tomatoes slightly, just until plump but still chewy. Dip them in either wine or distilled vinegar and then pack them in a jar with olive oil and some herbs such as, thyme or oregano, and some sliced garlic. Allow this to sit at room temperature for 4 to 8 hours. Then place them in the refrigerator. 

Tomatoes Examined

Plum – Plum tomatoes often have fine thick flesh and reduced amounts of pulp. This makes them good for holding shape when canned, and it means they also slice quite well. Because they have less pulp they cook down for sauces faster. Roma tomatoes are part of this category.

Beefsteak – Beefsteaks are the very biggest tomatoes. They hold together well when sliced, and together with their large size, make them the ideal ‘slicer’ for sandwiches

Salad – Pulp tends to fall out if they are sliced and their smaller size makes them ideal for cutting in half or in quarters to have with a salad.

Cherry – Tiny tomatoes for putting whole in salads, or snacking. Usually very prolific.
 
Tomato Pests & Problems
Leaf Curl: The rolling or curling of tomato leaves can be a symptom of environmental stress, herbicide damage or viral infection.Tomato leaves curl naturally if it’s too dry, too hot, too humid or too windy. In other words, the leaves will tend to curl if growing conditions are not optimum for the plant. If it’s too hot and dry, water more deeply. If it’s too wet, water less frequently (make sure you water deeply though). Tomato leaf roll symptoms may also be a direct result of herbicide injury. Plant recovery depends on the severity of the exposure. Tomato leaf roll may be associated with viral infection. Tomato yellow leaf curl virus is transmitted by sap-sucking insect vectors and causes leaf roll symptoms in infected tomato plants. Purplish veins on the leaf underside will help to distinguish this virus from physiological leaf roll and herbicide injury.

Catfacing is when the fruits are deformed (unusual swellings) and there are scar-like streaks on the tomatoes. This can be caused by abnormal flower development usually due to cool weather during the plant’s pollination. Tomatoes are not as nice to look at but are still edible.

Blossom end rot occurs when the fruits look normal on the top, but when you go to pick them there is a large, unappetizing black spot on the blossom end of the tomato. This is not a disease, but is caused by a lack of calcium in the fruit. One way to avoid this is to make sure you water and mulch regularly.

Fusarium and verticillim wilt are the two most harmful fungal diseases that attack tomato plants. Infected plants display yellowing and wilting of the older leaves about midsummer. The yellowing moves up the stem until the whole plant is dead. The best defense is to be proactive in the garden and practice crop rotation. Planting wilt-resistant tomato varieties, which are designated by a VF after the cultivar name to help avoid these problems.
Note: Do not plant tomatoes or any of their relatives (eggplant, peppers or potatoes) in an area that has been infected for at least 4 to 6 years.Fruit rot occurs when fruits are allowed to touch the ground. Stake or cage tomato plants so that they never contact the soil and always leave enough space between your tomatoes for air circulation so that the foliage will dry off more rapidly.

Sunscald can occur when fruits are exposed to excessive and intense sunlight and heat. This is indicated when plants and fruit have pale yellow and grayish-white patches.

Cracking in tomatoes can occur on the vine if the plant has gone through a fast growth period and then goes through a dry spell. Keep moisture levels as even as possible throughout the season. 

Early Blight can affect the foliage, stems and fruit of tomatoes. Symptoms include dark spots with concentric rings which usually develop on older leaves first. The surrounding leaf area may turn yellow. Affected leaves may die prematurely, exposing the fruits to sun scald. Early Blight fungus overwinters in plant residue and is soil-borne. It can also come in on transplants. Remove affected plants and thoroughly clean fall garden debris. Wet weather and stressed plants increase likelihood of attack.

Advice for Growing Tomatoes
• Water Evenly
• Do not crowd plants – keep well spaced
• Do not work around plants when they are wet to avoid spreading problems
• Rotate crops – do not plant in the same place more than one year (this include relatives of tomatoes – eggplants, peppers or potatoes)
• Whether you recognize it or not, if plants are affected with something do NOT compost them.
• Look for disease resistant varieties among tomatoes.

Turnip Varieties

Turnips – also referred to as summer turnips which helps to differentiate them from Rutabagas. Turnips grow faster than Rutabagas and taste delicious either eaten raw or cooked. They are smaller, rounder and have a white flesh. Turnips do not have a long storage period.

Rutabagas – also known as Swedes, Swede Turnips and Winter Turnips. Rutabagas are grown the same as Turnips but are shaped like large beets, sweeter and most often have creamy-yellow flesh. Excellent when served as a cooked dish these vegetables can be baked, mashed, scalloped or made into fries just like a potato. Alternatively, they are tasty as a raw vegetable for dipping. They take twice as long to mature as turnips but are hardier and can be stored throughout the winter months under proper conditions. Many people are actually referring to rutabagas when they say turnips.

When to Plant
Sow directly outside in early spring.

Location/Soil
Plant in full sun in a rich, well drained location. Work soil well as turnips and rutabagas are root crops and require room for proper development.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 13 mm (1/2″) deep and 2.5 cm (1″) apart. Plants should be spaced 10 cm (4″) apart with rows spaced 45 cm (18″) apart. Seeds germinate in approximately 8-12 days.

Other Information
Consistent moisture throughout the growing season is essential. Turnips are susceptible to root splitting which is often caused by periods of fluctuating moisture levels. Practice crop rotation to avoid pests. Root maggots can often attack both turnips and rutabagas. Putting row covers over the plants early in the season can help with this problem. Some gardeners find planting cabbage by the turnips and rutabagas to be a natural way to help control root maggots. Avoid adding excessive organic matter and especially raw manure which will cause root vegetables to become hairy.

Harvesting & Storage
Turnips taste best when harvested at a size of approximately 8 cm (3”) in diameter. Harvested turnips stored at room temperature should be used up within a week and can be stored for 2-3 weeks in a cool and humid location. Turnip greens can be harvested throughout the season and are an excellent addition to salads or wonderful when prepared as a steamed vegetable. Rutabagas are best when roots reach a diameter of approximately 10-15 cm (4-6”). Rutabagas can be left in the ground until just before it freezes. The sweet flavor of rutabagas is enhanced by light frosts. Rutabagas stored at room temperature should be used in about a week’s time; they can be stored in a refrigerator for several weeks and can be stored for many months when placed in a cool location with temperatures slightly above freezing.

Companion Planting
Likes: Cabbage, onion, peas.

Watermelon Varieties

When to Plant
Sow directly into the garden once the danger of frost has passed or for an earlier crop, start indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost using 3-4” Jiffy peat pots and make sure to weather/harden off the plants before setting them in the ground. When transplanting, take great care not to disturb the root system.

Location/Soil
Best when planted in a rich, moist, well-drained soil in full sun. Transplants should only go into the garden once soil is completely warmed. Plants will do better if there is some shelter from winds.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 2.5 cm (1″) deep and sow 5-6 seeds per hill or 5 cm (2″) apart. Plants should be spaced/thinned to 2-3 plants per hill or 15 cm (6″) apart. Rows should be spaced 1.5-1.8 m (5-6′) apart. Seeds germinate in approximately 5-7 days.

Other Information
Adequate moisture is essential during the growth of the plant and during pollination while fruits are setting. After this, water only when soil becomes dry as high rainfall or excessive irrigation as the melons near maturity will adversely affect fruit flavor. Water around the base of the plant and be careful to avoid splashing dirt onto the leaves which can transfer diseases from the soil to the plants. To improve the chances of having nice sweet matured fruit by the end of the season, it can be helpful to limit the number of fruits on each plant (by removing blossoms) after you have 3-4 watermelons forming which will allow the plant put all its energy into those remaining fruits.

Harvesting & Storage
Watermelons that are allowed to ripen on the vine have the best flavor so if possible protect plants from light frosts. Check under the melon – if it has a yellow or light colored bottom, it should be ripe. If its stripes are found all around the melon it’s just not ready yet. If you have a good ear, tap on the watermelon: if it sounds hollow, it’s ripe. Not hollow, unripe.

Companion Planting
Likes: Corn, radish

Zucchini Varieties

When to Plant
Sow directly into the garden once the danger of frost has passed or for an earlier crop, start indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost using 3-4” Jiffy peat pots and make sure to weather/harden off the plants before setting them in the ground.

Location/Soil
Best when planted in a rich, moist, well-drained soil in full sun. Transplants should only go into the garden once soil is completely warmed.

Planting & Growing Information
Sow seeds 2.5 cm (1″) deep and sow 5-6 seeds per hill or 5 cm (2″) apart. Plants should be spaced/thinned to 2 or 3 of the strongest plants per hill or 15 cm (6″) apart. Rows should be spaced 1.5-1.8 m (5-6′) apart. Seeds germinate in approximately 5-12 days.

Other Information
Keep soil adequately moist throughout the season and give plants a nice deep watering once a week. Water around the base of the plant and be careful to avoid splashing dirt onto the leaves which can transfer diseases from the soil to the plants. 

Harvesting & Storage
For best quality and flavor, zucchinis should be harvested when young. Most varieties are best picked when fruits are approximately 10-20 cm (4-8”) long. Regular harvesting will increase the yield. Zucchinis that get overly large are perfectly suited for muffins and breads. Like other summer squashes, zucchinis do not keep for a long time. Refrigerate and use within a week.

Companion Planting
Likes: beans, corn, peas, marigolds, nasturtiums, radish

In the gardening world, bolting refers to when the plant (usually vegetables and herbs) puts all its energy into flower and seed based growth instead of the expected leaf growth. 

Plants are for the most part triggered into bolting because of hot weather. Once temperatures get to a point where the plant will have difficulty surviving, it will stop leaf growth and try to produce flowers and seeds as quickly as possible. It’s easy to tell when a plant has bolted, because it will send out long shoots topped by flowers that will eventually contain seeds. 

Once a plant has fully bolted, the plant is normally inedible. The plant’s entire energy reserve is focused on producing the seeds, so the rest of the plant tends to become tough and woody as well as tasteless or even bitter. 

Bolting can be prevented with a few steps:
• Plant early in the spring so that it grows during the late spring
• Plant late in the summer so that it grows during early fall
• Add mulch and ground cover to the ground and water regularly to keep the soil temperature down
• Look for plant strains that can tolerate heat better than others, making them more bolt resistant

Some plants that are known for bolting include basil, broccoli, cabbage, cilantro, lettuce, and spinach.

Mulch is any material that is placed over the soil in your garden. Its purpose is to help retain moisture, deter weeds and stop the soil from eroding. It is beneficial as it saves time in weeding and watering and many gardeners feel that a nice thick layer of mulch looks better than bare soil. Mulch is available through many garden centers, but consider making your own by shredding leaves, sticks, grass, bark, compost, or other organic material. Before mulching remove weeds and thoroughly soak the soil. Remember that it is meant to stay on top of the soil, not be worked into the soil where it could hinder a plants growth. The best benefits come from a nice, coarse mulch applied 2-4” thick.

Starting seed indoors is a project that is both economical and richly rewarding. When it comes time for transplanting young plants to containers or gardens you want to make sure you avoid severe transplant shock - when the growth of the plant is set back due to change in environment or roots being damaged.

To help avoid transplant shock:
• Don’t transplant too early – cold soil temperatures will slow down growth
• Make sure plants have been well watered prior to transplanting
• Harden off seedlings before transplanting – gradually expose them to outdoor conditions
• Cloudy, calm days are the best to transplant annuals – less shock to the plants
• Water plants as soon as possible after planting to help them settle into their holes.

Growing your own herbs and drying for later use ensures quality in freshness and taste as well as the knowledge your herbs were produced totally free of chemicals. The best and most economical way to dry herbs is to air dry. It is best to make this an ongoing process throughout the growing season instead of doing a mass herb drying project.
In the mornings, cut stems or branches away from the plant (best to harvest before plant starts flowering) and remove any damaged or diseased leaves.
• Make sure the herbs are dry – wet herbs quickly turns to mould
• Put 4-5 stems/branches together to form a bunch (tie with string or elastic band) and place upside down in a brown paper bag (with some holes cut in the sides for ventilation)
• Gather the ends of the bag around the bundle and tie closed
• Make sure not to overcrowd and place in a warm dry room.In 1-2 weeks the plants should be dry – check for any mould (discard if you find mould)
• Run your hand over the stem to remove the dried leaves and throw away stems
• Store in an air-tight containers away from light

Pumpkins are a quintessential fall delight in Canada, and we've come up with some wonderfully inventive ways to make the most of them, savor their vibrant colors, and indulge in their delightful flavors. From jack-o-lanterns and soups to sandwiches, home decor, musical shakers, and the beloved pumpkin spice lattes, we've explored a myriad of creative applications. But amidst all this innovation, it's easy to overlook some of the pumpkin's simplest components: its seeds and blossoms. Typically, when you carve a jack-o-lantern or prepare a fall dish, the seeds and blossoms end up in the trash. Embarking on a zero-waste journey and maximizing your pumpkin harvest is surprisingly straightforward. That's why we're sharing straightforward methods that will become a staple for every fall harvest. 

Harvesting Pumpkin Seeds
Slice Off the Top
Just as you would when preparing a pumpkin for carving, take a sharp, robust knife (one with serrations can be helpful) to cut a "lid" around the pumpkin's upper portion, then lift it off.

Scoop Out the Seeds
Use a large metal spoon to scoop out the pulp and seeds. Employ the spoon to scrape the inside walls of the pumpkin to remove as much of the stringy pulp as possible.

Separate the Seeds
Place the pulp and seeds in a large bowl of water. As you manually separate the seeds, you'll observe that most of them will sink to the bottom, making them easier to distinguish. Rinse the seeds in a colander while gently agitating them to remove any remaining pulp.

Allow to Dry
Spread out the seeds on a paper towel or parchment paper to allow them to air dry. They should feel dry to the touch but can continue to dry out further when roasted.

Roast (and Season)
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Lay out the seeds on a baking sheet and drizzle them with your preferred cooking oil. This is the perfect opportunity to add seasonings, from simple choices like salt and pepper to more elaborate combinations such as cinnamon, sugar, nutmeg, cayenne pepper, allspice, lemon, cajun seasoning, and more.

Give this Cinnamon Sugar Pumpkin Seed recipe a try for a festive snack (courtesy of joyfoodsunshine.com). 

Harvesting Pumpkin Blossoms
Pluck Them
This is the simplest part. Pinch the base of the pumpkin blossom and pluck it directly from its stem. It's also a good idea to rinse the blossoms in cold water and gently pat them dry before cooking. The same picking and cooking techniques can be applied to all varieties of squash blossoms. Pumpkin blossoms are particularly versatile due to their size and sturdy petals, which can withstand cooking.

Choose a Cooking Method
RAW: Pumpkin blossoms, along with other squash blossoms, can be consumed as they are, making them a perfect addition to a fall green salad.

FRIED: Fried squash blossoms offer a surprisingly light and fresh flavor, especially when prepared in a tempura batter, which is ideal for quick frying without overcooking the blossom's interior. Explore this Pumpkin Flower Tempura Recipe from Chef DePaprika for a fast and genuinely traditional tempura frying technique.

STUFFED: Pumpkin blossoms tend to be larger than other squash blossoms like zucchini, making them perfect for stuffing. There are numerous stuffing ideas available, including Thai Pork-Stuffed Squash Blossoms. However, our favorite fall recipe is the Market Stuffed Squash Blossoms from A Spicy Perspective, which features a delightful filling of goat cheese and dried cherries, making it an ideal dish for a holiday dinner.

Gardens provide wonderful flowers and vegetables. A very important part of their ability to do so is making sure organic matter is being put back into the soil.
Soil testing for nutrients gives a very clear indication of how healthy your soil is.
Soil pH is another test that can greatly benefit gardeners because if soils are too acidic or alkaline, plants can’t absorb nutrients from the soil efficiently.

If you are starting a new garden bed or if you have had concerns it may be a good idea to consider getting the soil tested.